We spent a few days before and after the safari in Nairobi, where we were able to spend some time seeing the sights. One place close to the capital is the home of Karen Blixen, there is also a giraffe sanctuary where you can feed the giraffes for a few shillings. One of my favourite places is the elephant orphanage started by Daphne Sheldrake many years ago, and where my adopted elephant, Ndume, lived before he was released back into the wild. The orphanage was set up to provide sanctuary for baby elephants orphanned by the poachers who killed the adult elephants for their ivory. In the centre of Nairobi there is also a cultural centre, which is worth a visit and the museum and conference centre are worth a look. If you have time, take a coffee in the Thorn tree café, part of the Stanley hotel, where you can also leave a message pinned to the trunk of the ancient acacia tree which dominates the centre of the outdoor terrace.

After a few days around Nairobi we set off for the Masai Mara. First stop Lake Naivasha, where our hotel rooms were surrounded by monkeys and the lake provide homes for it’s abundant birdlife and hippos. Our rooms weren’t quite ready when we arrived, but no matter, we just sat on the verandah with a long cool drink, and admired the view.!!!

Our accommodation at the Masai Mara was in a tent, but this was luxury…not really camping!!!! The base is concrete and there are proper beds and en suite facilities; you just had to remember to fasten your doorflap securely on leaving, and at night, otherwise the baboons would be in, investigating, and relieving you of, your possessions!!!

The best time to see the animals is early morning(really early!!!) and late afternoon, when they are wandering to find food. We were up at five and back at the camp in time for breakfast, and then could laze the day away until three or four oclock when our second game drive of the day took place. Most of the lodges are situated at the gates of the game parks, and there are rules in place to protect the animals. All vehicles have to stick to the designated route, and be off the park before 6pm, It is sometimes difficult to stick to the roads, especially when a lioness decides it’d make a good place for a snooze. She ain’t moving, so you have to go round, and one day when we went of in search of Rhino, we only just made it back before the 6pm deadline. Transport is in jeeps, with large open sunroofs, which is fine while the weather is dry, but it’s a nightmare to try and get the covers over in a sudden downpour!!! The guides are very good, all speak English, and know, or at least can find out, where the game is. They are in touch with each other and headquarters by radio, so any problems can be dealt with. This also helps to prevent too many vehicles attending one point at any one time, so that on our last day, knowing some of the other jeeps were at a particular part of the Mara river to view the hippo, we headed off in another direction, and had that stretch of river to ourselves, give or take a few dozens hippos, that is.

There are plenty of animals to see all over the Masai Mara, and we were lucky enough to see most of the big game. But we had great trouble tracking down the elusive leopard. While we were able to find lions, cheetahs, elephant, even rhino after a long drive in the rain, and though we went on about eight game drives, we never got to see a leopard.

The Masai seemed to be very friendly and appeared to be happy to have us visit their village..they still live in the traditional mud huts, usually arranged in a huge circle, around the communal fires. Their possessions are minimal, and the inside of the huts were basic, just providing a bed.

In the markets, bargaining is the name of the game, but there are government controlled shops in Nairobi which sell numerous ethnic goods.

Best buys are batik, woven baskets and wooden carvings. It is 10 years since I was there, so prices no doubt will have changed.

Tourism in recent years has been badly affected by terrorist activities, and the introduction of a visa fee by the Kenyan Authorities. In an attempt to win back tourists, this visa fee was abolished, but has been reintroduced this year. You will need vaccinations for a visit to Kenya, and a course of malaria tablets.

More up and coming safari destinations where tourism is relatively new, are Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe, along with South Africa.

For more information, call Genie Travel on 0845 388 8805 or e mail sales@genietvl.co.uk.